No, you don’t get to pick out your fish on a glistening bed of shaved ice. Then again, you won’t hear the soundtrack to Zorba the Greek either. What you do hear at Uncle Nick’s is the dink-dank of little plates hitting tiled tables with the unceasing redundancy of a centipede shod in clogs. It becomes obvious that Nick’s extended family is not shy about its bottomless appetite for anything garlicky, spreadable, finger-pickable, and briny. — Hal Rubenstein Recommended Dishes: Grilled halibut, Xifias kebob, Spinach pie.